Monthly archive June, 2012

siesta

The orange nail polish on my toenails sparkle as the last rays of the sun slither through the window. A spicy silence. A hissing noise I can’t locate punctuates the nothingness of this siesta hour. In another house someone is listening to loud American 80′s music. Maybe it’s KissFM. Maite shifts in her rocking chair. She has awakened. Her blatter wants relief. Then she is shuffling around, touching everything, rustling the keys on the table by the door, handling them like a talisman trying to remember if she has an errand to run.

long live the

  Siesta

 
In the time it takes to write a paragraph the sun has gone. The ash-gray clouds float down but the horizon is the color of cream on the surface of boiled milk. Let it rain from above and quell this heat. Pebbles of rain against the window as we sleep at night. Another kind of silence.

Siesta is an old tradition in Spain. Despite the invention of air

conditioning units it still sneaks up on you, even in a city like Madrid. When I first visited Salamanca in 2001 many shops and offices still closed for siesta hours.
Now many employers simply don’t offer a horario partido, a split schedule, which would allow the worker to go home for a long lunch, sleep a quick nap, before returning to the office. A shame. I never felt there was any laziness in this custom because these folks usually worked long into the evening.
 
 
 
 
 
 
In the golden days of agriculture, the siesta was essential to the field worker who wanted to avoid heat-stroke. It is still essential to the ambitious traveler who wants to avoid skin cancer. At 1 o’clock in Granada, it is simply impossible to keep walking around. It’s time to find a place for lunch and then draw a shortcut to the hotel. Take a shower and fall into your fresh bed linens.
Siesta II
When I was traveling in in the southern province of Andalucia this summer, I woke up early with the sun and retreated from its glare after lunch until late afternoon, sometimes until 6 pm.
 
That seems late to my Americanized psyche but the truth is that 6 pm is not quite evening for the sun does not finish its work until 10.30 pm, when the youth crawl out in swarms for la marcha, the march, as the natives call the custom of going out a night for drinks, clubbing, and if you’re really having a good time, an early breakfast at 5 am…

Long live the day!

week-ender

I love the quiet of the mountains. The water whistles, the birds twitter and the wind whispers. The sound of silence.
It’s impossible to appreciate without slowing down.
I took this picture at Navacerrada, in the mountains above Madrid.
I hope it inspires you to walk in the slow lane, and enjoy every bit of this week-end.

el chito

I love soccer because it’s immediately exciting. It doesn’t matter when you happen on a game on TV, you can jump right in. Because it’s a game that elevates the contribution of the individual player, it’s impossible to win without team spirit. It’s a game that celebrates solidarity and I love that.

It’s also easy to play. You don’t need anything except another fanatic willing to go around with you. You roll up an old sock and kick it around on the cement porch, right out in the burning sun. Take someone’s shoes and put them a few yards apart and you’ve got a soccer field. You’re Bebeto; you’re a star; you’re magnificent. Goal… Soccer is the most beloved sports in Haiti.

choti

Someone told me that you can’t understand a country if you don’t understand its sports. That’s certainly true about American football. While baseball has been hailed as America’s favorite pass time, it is football that most resonates with the American psyche. American football is indigenous to this land and is played with patriotic pride. American football exhibits the hallmarks of American character —hard work, self-discipline, sacrifice for the greater good and individual achievement.

At 10 a.m. in the morning the heat hitting the pavement in Casa de Campo park is severe enough to make a walk in the park slightly hazardous. A group of older men are playing a game of chito. I know it is chito because I ran up to the administrator’s desk and spied the papers. This is a tournament, which means someone will win and someone will lose, which means there is a way to be good at this and a way to be bad at it. Baffling. I would guess that these players range from 60 to 75 years of age. I have met people here who are 90 years old, live alone, and travel alone. In Granada, I saw elders ambling with walkers out for an evening stroll under the orange trees in the small neighborhood park. Old couples and some matrons traveling in groups fill modest hotels in the summer. Here they carpe diem ´til the last minute.
I’ll sign up for that.

The old timers’ game, chito, consists of heavinga heavy slate of metal at painted stakes in the ground. Hitting the stake is the goal. Th team leader carries a hefty magnet attached to a rope, with which he picks up the slates and returns them to the players at the starting line. This game is also good for working on your tan.

choti

choti

I saw this game while visiting friends in Madrid. A totally autoctonous activity as far as I can tell. Never seen it anywhere else. It amused me that they had lists and tournaments – the seriousness of it made me laugh. If you enjoy the post, please share with others!

live music

vargasmorado1

summer essential

outdoor live music

When I was a kid, my idea of music were the religious tunes, sung in a capella, that my grandmother listened to every morning as I got ready for school. On Sunday mornings she’d listen to Latin boleros. A type of music for which I have – inexplicably – kept a soft spot. It makes no sense because I hated the overwrought sentimentality. But every now and then I don’t mind a little Juan Luis Miguel. My grandmother didn’t speak a word of Spanish but it didn’t matter. And, it doesn’t matter now that I had never listened to jazz and blues before because you don’t need to understand much to enjoy music. You just need to feel it. And boy, did it feel good.

A little boy brought his toy guitar and jammed like a devil. It was sensational. I stood for two hours. This is a preview, a baptism of sorts, in live music. Next week I will have my confirmation. We are seeing The Boss himself live in Madrid. The mutherfucking Bruce Springstein. My running playlist always includes at least three Springstein songs. I love the belly-growl of that voice; the energy is contagious and the lyrics dig canyons inside me. Perhaps what has sold me completely on him is the talk he gave at this year’s SXSW conference.

I’ve come all this way to learn about American blues.
I’ve been thinking about American culture lately.
Even though I’ve lived here for 15 years there’s a lot of this land and its communities left for me to explore. I’m curious about the autoctonous traditions in the remote pockets of the mainland like the fragile legacy of fife and blues in Mississippi and what people really mean when they call themselves “Southern.” I want to know and perhaps the next best thing to being there is listening to the music.
It was amazing because I’m sure most of these people would have to think before they could find the English words to ask for the nearest bathroom but they knew the words to these classic blues tunes. I knew they were classic because even the sextogenerians knew the words. I, on the other hand, was clueless. My musical repertoire is very lean.
 
Javier Vargas Band in Aluche, a suburb of Madrid.
 
 
vargasnaranja